Water Sign Wheat – A brewer’s birthday beer.

by Fred Bueltmann on February 1, 2012

I had the great fortune of brewing a beer with my old friends and colleagues, Brett VanderKamp and Steve Berthel, “Bert”, the other day.  Last year, while hanging out at our “Beermuda Triangle,” the night before Michigan Brewers Guild’s Winter Beer Festival, we had the idea that we should celebrate our birthdays together.  Bert, the owner-brewer of The Livery is an Aquarius, with his birthday on February 10th or 11th, Brett, New Holland founder, is a Pisces like me, and celebrates his on the 20th, while mine is the 22nd of February.  As luck would have it, we’ve actually managed to keep the idea alive and not only get a party planned, but we even brewed a beer for it!

During the MBG WInter Conference, we stole a few moments away from the camaraderie and learning to hash out a plan.  The three of us are all excited about the advent of new opportunities with Michigan ingredients.  In the last three-four years, we’ve seen hops get planted, grown and now even pelletized for the commercial breweries.  Total volume is still low comparatively, but it’s an emerging crop that we’re thrilled to have access to.  Even better, the farmers and Michigan Hop Alliance, especially you, Brian Tennis, are keeping in touch with the breweries and growing with us collaboratively.

The grain side of things is a bit trickier, as growing brewery-grade barley isn’t always available in our climate.  Wheat, however is a different story, and Wendell from Michigan Malting is working hard to make Michigan wheat available for breweries.

So, once the idea was hatched, the recipe construction was uncomplicated.  100% Michigan-grown wheat, with 100 % Michigan hops; nugget and brewers gold.  We talked about keeping it a fairly simple showcase, letting the ingredients shine and brewing a sessionable beer that we’d like to drink all evening.  That led us to using a yeast from both breweries – a Belgian tripel yeast from The Livery’s tanks and New Holland’s  house ale yeast.

It was a great day, brewing with old friends.  I started my beer career in Chicago, but my first craft-brewery job was taking on the role as the first sales manager at Bell’s in Kalamazoo in 1995.  Bert was a pub-regular in those days, even prior to joining the crew at Kraftbrau across the street.  My band, Uncle Heavy, played there regularly and Bert and I bonded over music and beer, back when it seemed we were on the wild frontier.

As we sat down for lunch during the brew-day, I learned that Bert was at the bar in Kalamazoo

the day Brett and Jason brought some of the earliest bottles of New Holland to Bell’s to show off their wares, most likely in fall of 1997.

It slowly dawned on me that this collaboration was a little bit more than we were chalking it up to be.  It started as a fun thing to add to the party, and a refreshing change of schedule; and the more it sits with me, I realize it’s a remarkable celebration of Michigan.  When the three of us started in this industry, there was no Michigan grain to brew with, no hops grown in the state commercially, and not even a Michigan Brewers Guild.  Go back a few years earlier and you’ll see the low-water mark for breweries in the state was 3, count ‘em,  three in 1991 – compared to over 100 today.

I’m not going to turn this particular post into a Michigan pep-rally, or run down the many virtues of the Michigan Brewers Guild & greater brewing community, but suffice it to say there are some days that the mash smells that much sweeter.

The day passed easily and comfortably and the mash did smell sweet.   The brew proceeded amazingly smoothly, hitting its marks on time and in-spec.  We shared a few stories, and brewed our all-Michigan birthday beer, while sipping on Hopivore, a Michigan wet-hopped harvest ale, which punctuated the moment elegantly.  It’s hard for any of us to get away from our daily grind, and get a brew like this on the schedule.  In a funny way, while the the playful context shift we set out for was enjoyable, I feel we gained a fair amount more.

At our party at Billy’s in GR on February 24th, another Michigan favorite will be joining us, Laith Al-Saadi.  I first heard Laith at Good Night Gracies, sometime in the late nineties with several of my beer industry cronies; grabbing a post-tradeshow beer.   I won’t forget the moment, as we weren’t there for the band, and were well occupied in conversation off to the side.  Let’s just say that Laith’s playing has a unique ability to get your attention.  I remember stopping mid-sentence, and remarking something like, “Holy shit, this guy’s killin it.”

On his next break, I chatted with Laith and we immediately bonded over a mutual influence, Robben Ford (& Roscoe Beck).  We’ve kept in touch since, and his band has always killed it.  I’ve wanted to see them at Billy’s forever, and I believe this is their first appearance there.

 

In short, get your ass to Billy’s where three guys are a year older, telling stories about the olden days (again), while sharing an exclusive small-batch, Michigan showcase beer and listening to some rip-your-head-off blues.  Of course, we’ll have a few other beers and some Hopquila on hand for the adventurous.

Whatever I missed can be found on our website or Facebook event.

Cheers!

 

 

{ 0 comments }

Thanksgiving

by Fred Bueltmann on November 25, 2011

We welcomed family and friends to the farm this year for Thanksgiving. It’s the quiet morning after and I can see the sun coloring the bottom of the horizon outside as the house sleeps. I enjoy cooking for my family. Besides the excitement of a large-meal challenge, cooking is one of the ways I express myself and do my best to add warmth to a welcome. I have found that I also enjoy celebrating scratch-cooking; both learning and demonstrating that it’s possible to connect with techniques and recipes that start the dish or meal at its very beginning.

This year was particularly gratifying for several reasons. As our guest list grew, we decided if it was going to happen at our place, it’d have to be in the barn. (instead of the nearby Fenn Valley Winery who has rented us their kitchen and banquet hall before), Long story short, while brisk at times, 20-some guests sat at a super long dinner table, in the company of two horses, overlooking the affair from their stalls. Guests young and old fed apples, groomed and even sat bareback for a post-dinner stretch.

The menu was very local. When I talked with Lee and Lori at Eaters Guild Farm in Bangor to reserve a turkey (free range, organic, happy turkey), I learned what produce they’d have. I began to imagine a menu based on what was available; brussels, carrots, kale, potatoes, rutabagas and more. When we had dinner at Salt of the Earth earlier in the week, I talked with them about bread for stuffing, and as we left, I had a mixed-bag of loaves on their way to perfect crustiness.

Last month, we bought a half-side of pork from nearby Evergreen Lane Farm, better known for their goat’s milk cheeses. We were fortunate enough to get some of their pork, and even more lucky that I got to assist neighbors Matt and Amy in the butchering, along with Sous, Brandon and Torie. I made breakfast sausage for the stuffing and Mole Asses Bacon went with the brussels. We also used one of my favorite cheeses, Poet’s Tomme (stout-washed cows milk) in the family-favorite Leeks Gruyere (gruyere no-longer).

I also embraced the concept of resting the birds more fully than ever before. It’s been a neighborhood discussion over many whole-chickens, and I’m feeling enlightened by the shift. Instead of trying to time the turkeys to the last possible minute, it was the opposite question of “how early can I cook them?” By setting aside the target of serving the turkey hot, (which is an impossibility anyway), I felt I could improve flavor with longer rest (at least the amount of cooking time) and free up the kitchen to focus on sides, with the oven and chef more available. This theory played out with great satisfaction, as the entire menu was managed with one oven, and everything was delivered at an enjoyable temperature. Sometimes it takes a decade to have an eye-opening realization like this one.

While many drinks were shared, when turkey hit the table, so did Hopivore, our harvest-ale with all-Michigan hops, from the Michigan Hop Alliance. I picked it as the perfect pair from a flavor point of few, bridging to the beer-brined turkey, before realizing how nicely it tied into what had almost inadvertently become a local theme.

I’m encouraged and grateful that this is all so possible. I don’t want to soap-box the local movement, or get so “foodie” that people get intimidated. I believe in sourcing quality as a higher priority than zip-code, but also believe that often times they’re one in the same. I’m so happy that higher quality, ethically-raised, nutritious, chemical-free food is getting more accessible than ever before, which ultimately brings it to more people and makes these farms and practices that much more sustainable.

As I ponder yesterday’s cooking marathon, and recall the familiar “what are you thankful for” toasts, I consider several things, which this morning, are food-focused:

– My family. You have offered unending inspiration and support in many areas. You’ve also been good eaters and allowed my cooking indulgences, willingly stretching you food-view when invited to.

- My long-departed friend and homebrew partner Mike. We opened a window to the world of beer together, well before we each found a door.

- The countless friends, chefs and brewers that have cooked with me, talked food with me, and shared ideas, techniques, advise and inspiration.

- The many people who believe that raising food and drink is a pursuit worthy of thoughtfulness and care. You accept larger challenges and smaller returns, but are gratified by the quality of experience over all else.

- My Mom and Dad for answering many of my questions with more questions, encouraging a perspective of curiousity and belief that I can figure something out. This includes responding to my panicked, college-age realization that I couldn’t cook, which meant I couldn’t “host”; with my first cookbook, so many years ago.

- My wife Ulla. Your razor sharp palate and willingness to endure my zealous pursuits are only part of your charm. You will always be my favorite person to cook for.

Thanks to all.

{ 1 comment }

Beer & Chocolate at the GR Wine Beer & Food Show

November 20, 2011

As promised, here are the pairings from the Beer and Chocolate tasting this afternoon. Great talking with many of you, thanks for coming out! Thanks to Promote Michigan, Kent Beverage and the GR Wine Beer & Food Show for having me. Cheers – The delicious chocolates are from Gail Ambrosius   Beerhive – Honey & [...]

Read the full article →

Beervangelist Thanksgiving

November 18, 2011

Beer Brined Turkey I’ve hosted Thanksgiving for more years than I can count, and I’ve cooked Turkey with many delicious techniques.  This beer-brined recipe is my favorite by far.  The beer, in this case is an aromatic IPA (India Pale Ale), Mad Hatter from New Holland Brewing in Holland, MI.  IPAs bring in flavor, aromatics [...]

Read the full article →

The drought is over.

November 2, 2011

Ok web-world, I’m coming back to The Beervangelist blog.  My schedule-induced hiatus, was followed by a word-press-blog-tastrophe that wiped out some data, but I’m setting course to get back at it. Besides my desire to upload a shit-ton of recipes and pairing ideas which are piling up in the library, I’d like to get back [...]

Read the full article →

Taste of Michigan – Harvest Dinner

November 5, 2010

Publican Restaurant & New Holland Brewing November 7, 2010 Chicago, IL Chevre with radishes, burgundy truffles & honey Barrel Aged Beerhive – Honey Ginger Tripel:  This special version of this summer’s treat, Beerhive, has been aged 140 days in Dragon’s Milk barrels.  Barrel aging has accentuated the rich and complex honey character sourced from our [...]

Read the full article →

What’s with all the Beer Dinners?

November 5, 2010

Beer and Food events have been consuming my time lately, hindering my ability to post, but engaging me in some really informative and inspiring events. I can look back 16 years or so to remember my first Beer Dinner.  Back in the day, the trend was for the restaurant to select the beers and invite [...]

Read the full article →

Great Taste of the Midwest 2010

August 12, 2010

Leaving late tonight to begin the progression towards Madison for the Great Taste of the Midwest.  Seems like I’ve been callin it the “Grandaddy of Midwestern Beerfests” longer than it takes to become a Grandaddy.  Talking with a good friend last night, it dawned on me that this will be my 17th consecutive Great Taste, [...]

Read the full article →

Beer and Dessert!

August 5, 2010

Another post for you beer and food fans out there.  A few days ago, another installment of Food For Thought was published.  In this edition, my column features Beer and Dessert. including a recipe for Chocolate Mousse with Imperial Stout and raspberry sauce.   I particularly enjoy presenting beer and dessert, because it so often blows [...]

Read the full article →

New Holland Beers Back in Indy

July 23, 2010

A few years ago, we (New Holland Brewing) set out to improve our distribution in Northern Indiana, including Valparaiso, South Bend, Miller, Fort Wayne and all points in between. As we demanded improvement in coverage and service for that territory, we were met with an ultimatum instead of solutions.  If we didn’t like how Northern [...]

Read the full article →